Category: Seasonal

What is good right now, and how to use it.

  • Late-summer tomatoes: what to cook and what to leave raw

    Late-summer tomatoes: what to cook and what to leave raw

    A short guide to the best fortnight of the year. If you can only buy one new tool this year, make it a thin, flexible fish spatula. It slides under delicate things, flips pancakes cleanly and costs less than a takeaway.

    The sauce will look too thin when it comes off the heat. Give it five minutes: starch and fat settle, and it thickens into something glossy and clinging.

    What stayed with us

    Leftovers improve overnight. Cool the dish quickly, refrigerate, and reheat gently with a splash of water. It tastes better on the second day, which is its own small reward.

    The details are never the small part.

    Adjust the heat to your liking. The chilli here is a background hum, not a headline; add more at the table if you want it to shout.

    Start with good ingredients and a hot pan, and resist the urge to move things around. Most of the flavour in this dish comes from leaving it alone for the first three minutes.

    Before you go

    • Take your time with it.
    • Notice the small things.
    • Write down what you want to remember.

    Salt in layers: a little when the onions go in, a little with the tomatoes, and a final pinch at the end. Each addition does something different, and tasting as you go is the whole technique.

  • What to do with a glut of courgettes

    What to do with a glut of courgettes

    Fritters, ribbons, pickles and a very good cake. Start with good ingredients and a hot pan, and resist the urge to move things around. Most of the flavour in this dish comes from leaving it alone for the first three minutes.

    Salt in layers: a little when the onions go in, a little with the tomatoes, and a final pinch at the end. Each addition does something different, and tasting as you go is the whole technique.

    What stayed with us

    If you can only buy one new tool this year, make it a thin, flexible fish spatula. It slides under delicate things, flips pancakes cleanly and costs less than a takeaway.

    The details are never the small part.

    The sauce will look too thin when it comes off the heat. Give it five minutes: starch and fat settle, and it thickens into something glossy and clinging.

    Leftovers improve overnight. Cool the dish quickly, refrigerate, and reheat gently with a splash of water. It tastes better on the second day, which is its own small reward.

    Before you go

    • Take your time with it.
    • Notice the small things.
    • Write down what you want to remember.

    Adjust the heat to your liking. The chilli here is a background hum, not a headline; add more at the table if you want it to shout.